From fish to coffee
A look past the apron. Past the chef hat. An XXL interview with Aleš Hvala.
Aleš. What do you consider to be a good dish?
Most importantly, I prefer those that are prepared out of one's feelings, passion and connectedness to the work ... creativity. You can sense this in the flavours ... discover it. Or not. It is as simple as that. Sometimes a good dish is for me the one that "hits the mark perfectly" ... a dish that when it appears on my plate, I know that I have been desiring it, for example, for days ... and secondly, when it surprises me with pure, distinctive flavours that are familiar to me. Sometimes a "good" dish is that which is completely new, contains the element of surprise ... a leap into a culinary adventure. Whether or not I like something depends on the moment in which I find myself. It is true, however, that I am an advocate of pure, natural flavours.
.... and what do you cook for yourself when you can take the time to do so?
Uh ... that's not difficult. I can quickly answer that ... oysters, raw Adriatic scampi, Dalmatian buzara, which even today we prepare according to father's recipe ... red scorpionfish slow cooked under embers and grilled fish, wide noodles with Istrian truffles ... mmm ... those dishes are incredible and, then, honestly, a dandelion salad or chicory to go with it. I can never get enough of grandma's štruklji (Kobarid dumplings). That is one I grew up with and it is in my blood at this point.
What is your relationship to food? What does it mean to you?
Sometimes obligation, but otherwise only enjoyment. I love to eat and I love when its time to sit for a meal ... who doesn't? An innkeeper is an innkeeper and he can't escape his own skin. When I am working, I rarely have time to cook for pleasure. If anything, during work it is more about creativity. In saying this, I want guests to feel lavished and contented.
Sometimes it seems to me that we give from ourselves that which we would in fact have prepared for ourselves or those we love most. It is a funny thing when you stare at a dish and consider that you could treat yourself to it ... have the whole plate to yourself but you cannot and must not. This is sometimes a bit cruel (laughs). You have the plate right under your nose but there is no time to indulge.
O.K. so that is the suffering part. What is pleasurable part then?
When we create, discover, combine. When we select, investigate and sometimes knock our head against the wall. At times it can be so much fun. First, you enjoy the time you spend finding and searching, then discovering a recipe ... at the end, you yourself indulge in what you've created. And because you have invested so much time into it ... you can enjoy it profoundly without any feelings of guilt. Each bite or sip is distinct. Is it not this way everywhere?
Well ... perhaps. How did your cooking career take off?
When you begin "to fly" around an inn at nine years old, and someone serves you your first glass - two decilitres of wine - after Mass and you fall but luckily the glass remains unbroken ... then you slowly begin cooking or baking. With time, you sort of step into the events around you and you begin to recognize the scents, colours, designs and flavours. If you are surrounded with this world from an early age and you like it, then it isn't a question of what and how. Yeah ... it simply becomes you.
Sounds romantic...
For me, the decision was difficult. When I was a "kid", for me there were no free weekends and summer wanderings around Kobarid. My final decision about "staying or going" was adopted after the only time in my life when I stole from my parents, a bottle of Tokay Brda from their cellar. I drove on my moped to St. Anton's and debated whether or not to go, reasoned with myself and drank the whole bottle. It may sound strange but it was just as I said. I'll use this opportunity to apologise to my parents for the stolen bottle. After that it was simpler. I entered catering middle school in Bled and later the chance for creativity came knocking at my door when my parents asked us children to take over, and we began to realize the possibilities that we were given. The chance to be creative is the best motivation.
What kind of restaurant is Topli Val?
According to its name, I would say that it is a very warm and charming place. It means that therein you are greeted with a relaxed atmosphere and genuine smiles. That is also one of our goals. To give of ourselves into each plate that is served. Without that, things cannot function.
All praise is received as motivation to continue the good work and possible criticism is seen as a chance to do something better or to supplement what is already good. All of the great masters say that, "in life you can always learn something new". We at Topli Val most like when we feel that we have given someone an experience rather than just served a meal. The compliment or praise can come or not. Sometimes it expressed through further visits or words spoken only through the eyes or through a smile. It is beautiful.
How did you get started?
My parents started things off. The history of Topli Val goes back to 1976. At that time, both mother and father returned from the coast, from Portorož, where after several years of working, they gained experience and ideas towards opening their own inn in their home region. I was three years old when we came back to Kobarid. First, they opened an inn in Batiču and then when Mrs. Danica retired they took over that location on Gregočičeva street and there began our story of culinary experiences from the Mediterranean kitchen in the village below Krn. As I child, I remember crab and shrimp in the kitchen ... that the fish never spoke.
I remember once having to peel a whole crate of potatoes with a hand peeler. I ended up taking them all to a neighbouring public inn because it was the only place with an automatic peeler. Without father's knowledge, at Mrs. Marica's place I peeled one, two, three and on.
Between 1982 and 1990, Topli Val became better known across the borders. Times of renovation came in 1995, but the real wishes of my father were in regard to the hotel industry. Thus began a new era, which brought challenges related to tourism as well as those of gastronomy. Slowly but surely, we proved our worth, and in 2003, we children took over the work from our parents.
What is the recipe for contentment ... your ideal dish?
I will probably repeat myself but oh well. Everything must be done out of a spirit and a passion for work. I speak with all of my co-workers and students openly about how every coffee or cappuccino should be created with a spirit and a joy that guests can sense. It doesn't matter who comes my way or how they look. Taste is taste. A smile is a smile. There is no difference. There is nothing better than when you open a new dimension for someone, that they sense the food in a brand new way. It would be wonderful if it could be that way each time. A new dimension. A new experience. Does it satisfy those long desired expectations? This is the dish that all of us wish to serve up after all these years.
It is true that one should always be aware that what you bring to the table depends not only on yourself. If you have a good relationship with suppliers and with the kitchen staff and if you are honest with guests, then you have a very good foundation and the opportunity to give something more.
What is your kitchen philosophy?
To constantly improve. In everything we stand by. You know ... give more of ourselves. We are all interdependent. We work as a team. We wouldn't survive long alone. Hmmm ... philosophy?
Yeah ...what do you hold on to most strongly?
A guest is a guest whether they call for a simple soup or a lobster swimming in the finest wine. First this. Everyone is welcome and everyone enjoys our best efforts. Here, we do not discriminate. This is foundation from which to build on. Regarding the purity of flavours, well, we already discussed that.
Can local cuisine also be found on the Topli Val menu?
Yes. If you desire it, we can prepare a full menu. According to taste. I must, however, mention the fact that with local cuisine, and we all sometimes over emphasise this: sometimes the best is not only what represents the place ... but also that which represents the history and life in general. Often, expectations prove to be excessive, not to mention the many failed experiments by guests who heard much about "local foods" but in the end were staring sadly down at a plate of half eaten food. It is safe to say that local foods exist in a space and time. To present them as they are or to keep them as they were or to adapt them in an original manner to modern tastes. Complicated?
... not really. Does that mean that apart from everything else, a dish also requires a story and an explanation so that people can understand what it's about and what to expect from it?
In a way, yes. You must remember that all tastes differ. Approaches to experimenting as well. Some are surprised if the food is simply laid out in a different manner, even if the taste is recognisable. Others only look for items that are truly original and pure, not to mention outstanding. Before any food reaches your mouth, it is helpful to know well what you desire and expect. Only then you begin a journey towards its beauty. To the land of tastes. There is nothing worse than a dish that there is not anything really wrong with, but which was created with the wrong image, not to mention an over-inflated or manipulated image. Sometimes, it is really hard to explain that not every home-style dish is acceptable even if it sounds exotic to a person. No matter which way we turn, we come to the fact that the perception of certain tastes has formed a long time earlier, before the plate ever reaches a guest here in Kobarid. The story is important in order to present a dish in the right manner, the true culinary context.
What did they once eat in this region?
When my grandmother Pepca mentions potatoes, cottage cheese or batudo, she says: "I've had enough of them. We didn't have anything else and we ate only those things but we were happy and life was good." The area's traditional cuisine occupies a different space. It is a part of life and not some current trend of spicing things up on a culinary journey or part of a super holiday. Likewise, I remember that as I child I had to drink goat's milk and eat dried tepka at grandmother Noni's. However, such things may be attractive for current guests to try and so we prepare them also.
Was the food healthy, greasy or heavy?
It depended on the status of the person or their position in society. Some people ate mostly potatoes, others meat products or veal ... and some, according to their own words, lived on air during the war. The Soca Valley was also very harsh in this context.
What foods are typical for this region? Typical dishes?
Many things ... frika (omelette), batuda (soup), polenta with cheese, various salamis, sausages and of course Kobarid dumplings. A characteristic of these dishes is the high caloric value since there is no shortage of crackling, lard and similar ingredients.
How have neighbouring regions influenced the local kitchen (Karst, Mediterranean, Italy, Austria and, moreover, that most visitors come from those areas?
The effects are felt of course. Those influences really helped to create the culinary arts in this area. Some of this and some of that. Influence from the Mediterranean and Italy and a few touches from the north have been particularly influential in regards to the mix on our plates. Slovenians have always been fairly resourceful and innovative when it comes to what they produce on their fields. It is normal for us that Karst, the Mediterranean, Italy and Austria are at our fingertips.
What about the current culinary trends - those that are sellable?
If we were to orient ourselves towards the current trends or daily whims, we would have to change the philosophy of our offers with each new flow. We do not agree with this approach and have decided to stick to our set paths with few additions, spicing ups and supplements. This has proven to be the right focus for us. It is quite windy in this region, and we would have been blown away long ago had we not stuck to the place where we are.
Do you find yourself returning to tradition or going away from it?
We hold to tradition in the selection of ingredients. We won't deviate from this. Sometimes we add or change and allow ourselves a bit of innovation but never too much. Our foundation is based on old proven recipes. We add fresh ideas into the tradition from time to time. We don't want to distance ourselves from our essence. During my childhood, my father told me, "An innkeeper who does not cook fresh beef soup every day is not an innkeeper."
Returning to the current restaurant. Does the quality of food depend upon quantity?
No! The quality is part of the concept of the kitchen and of the service. Regarding our capacity, I think that what is important is that we can serve a single guest in the same manner as 100 guests. That is that. We have set our standards, we follow them and we complement them when needed.
What about your ingredient suppliers? How can I know that everything is truly fresh? Does that mean that you only cook/prepare those things that are available at the moment?
Yes. In principle, you cannot have fresh mushrooms in January or good fresh pork products in summer, namely those are not part of our culinary material out of season. Nature has its limitations. We have to learn how to adjust to the seasons and find what is best at a given time. We thus coordinate with suppliers and seek to obtain the best at that current time. Then we can offer you the day's freshest ingredients through our recommendations.
Do you improvise in the kitchen?
We avoid improvisation as much as possible. However, if someone stated that it doesn't exist in our kitchen, they wouldn't be speaking honestly. Sometimes improvisation reveals new paths, new methods and uncovers new flavours. Sometimes, however, it only uncovers recipes that are best avoided if you don't wish to use shortcuts and move away from your traditions. Improvisation as part of the creative process in the phase of searching for something new is good, but otherwise it means making something quickly and simply and sooner or later it will leave a bad taste in the mouth. Not to mention ill will on both sides of the table.
What would you recommend from your menu in summer and what in winter? Why?
Be it summer or winter, I always like to recommend anything made from the fresh ingredients. It's very simple. Generally, that confidence in the ingredients pays off and is rewarded with excellent dishes.
When you are on vacation, do you have your eyes, nose and taste buds constantly working or do you shut them off, as we like to say?
(laughs) It's true that that's unavoidable sometimes. This is my life, however. As I mentioned earlier, I am a gourmet and I enjoy food. This way or that. One way or another.
What should I eat or drink so that we can turn all of this talk into flavours?
I would suggest that we first sit down. It will be more difficult if we stand. We will attempt to reconcile this debate with food and a glass of good wine. We'll have a raw dish to start ... perhaps oysters, shrimp or fish? Together with a taste of Ribolla 2008 from Blažič or perhaps something stronger? I am thinking maybe of a macerated Batiče Pinot Gris from 2004. Well, if you have any special requests, I can leave it to you ... maybe let's try them both (laughs).
O.K. That would be all. Thanks for your time.
